Few put Helsinki at the top of the art-related travel list. New York, London and Paris make sense. There is some rationale to Shanghai, and Dubai continues to climb. But, Helsinki? Finland? You won't necessarily find the big names that grace the global auction houses, but there are hidden gems in Finland...for the patient collector.

For the sake of convenience, comfort and style, stay at the Klaus K Hotel. Putting Scandinavia's artistic strengths on display, every day of art house scouring will end with a unique aesthetic experience that rivals what you've seen at the galleries and auction houses. Further, the staff was incredibly attentive, particularly during my quasi-meltdown when I couldn't access the hotel's wireless internet service.

While Klaus K is not a gallery itself, I was treated to a lobby exhibition sponsored by Veen Waters and featuring the works of local pop artist Antti Eklund. But, this show, "Recycled Masterpieces and 15-Minute Originals," was merely a tease. Several galleries dot the street on which Klaus K is located.

Of course, the presence of art galleries does not mean that they are worth entering. You will pass many single-artist exhibitions and wonder why the would-be aesthetes bothered to rent the space. I suffered through several mundane variations of "reindeer on a snowy landscape." Some experimented with different types of media, typically with disastrous results. At one, I saw two video art pieces. One reminded me of a security camera in a home improvement store greenhouse -- after hours. The other showed a car on a lift in a parking lot. It went up; it went down. Over and over.

In the Helsinki art scene, though, patience is rewarded.

At the larger galleries, you'll find both contemporary efforts and old masters -- and they are the quality that you would expect to find in major markets. Also, make time for the Bukowskis auction house. Annika Larres, the Bukowskis' resident expert has a keen eye and flawless judgment. While perusing the walls or catalogues, you may pick up a bit of art market intelligence as well. According to Larres, "The Russians are buying up Russian artists and bringing them back home." And, they are quite willing to pay a premium for the privilege of repatriation. Larres hasn't seen any transactions rivaling Roman Abromovich's $86 million for a Francis Bacon triptych, but she has seen plenty of buyers not intimidated by aggressive bidding.

For a change of scenery, take the ferry to Tallinn, Estonia (unlike me, remember to bring your passport with you, to prevent a sprint back to the hotel). There are a handful of small galleries in the old town, a charming walled city with a distinct medieval feel. If the turrets surrounding Old Tallinn bring you back in time, stepping into one of the local galleries will propel you back to today, with cutting edge thinking reminiscent of Richard Prince and Nelson Diaz. But, the there is enough variety to satisfy a broad spectrum of tastes.

Whether you go to Helsinki specifically to discover a new art scene or treat the galleries as a brief diversion while checking out everything else the city has to offer, you will find a rare friendliness. Galleries are much more welcoming in Finland than in the major art cities, and you will have no trouble securing a few minutes of an expert's time, even if you are browsing rather than shopping. But, the former easily becomes the latter. Don't worry, they are more than happy to shop canvases for you.

Tom Johansmeyer

10/27/08