There are some places where tourists refuse to go. Even for the curious, desperate to find something new, North Korea is rarely considered. If you want to get a close look at perhaps the last closed society in the world, though, Pyongyang must be on your list.

In exchange for giving up freedom of movement, you'll experience much more than is shown in the few photos spirited out of the country. Many speculate as to what happens above the 38 parallel. You will live it.

According to Koryo Tours, the most active North Korea destination firm in the world, it is possible for Americans to travel to North Korea. Many have made the journey already. While their motivations vary, Koryo Tours Director Nick Bonner says that "every U.S. citizen we have taken in says it is the highlight of their world travels." Many are drawn by a sense of mystery or excitement, though Bonner has seen more specific reasons, as well. One traveler wanted to ride a North Korean roller coaster, and another said she "didn't fully believe in Fox News."

When planning to go to the land of the "Dear Leader," expect to pack some items that you may not take elsewhere. Koryo Tours recommends picking up a few cartons of western cigarettes. Even if you don't smoke, there's a good chance your tour guides do. Regardless of exchange rates, Marlboros are always accepted currency. For female guides, Koryo Tours suggests hand creams and cosmetics. The gifts, normally offered on the second day of the trip, will help your hosts become more comfortable with you.

Why is there so much emphasis on breaking the ice? As you may know, North Korea treats outsiders with caution, where every movement is scrutinized. You will face the constant challenge of making people feel comfortable, and every gesture is magnified. The price to be paid for access to this unusual society is a monumental effort to put everyone around you at ease. The rewards, though, are substantial. You will see how the "other side" views the world.

Travel agendas do suggest propaganda. A look at the USS Pueblo is on the agenda. In 1968, this U.S. Navy ship was captured by the North Koreans, and its crew was held captive for nearly a year. Also, Panmunjom has a place on nearly every itinerary. The one destination that tourists can visit from North or South Korea, the truce village is heavily guarded, with elite soldiers from both ends of the border locked in a dangerous staring contest. Other stops include the various statues, monuments and museums that dot Pyongyang.

Koryo Tours, and other travel groups, offer both single and group packages, but regardless of how you go, the experience will be highly regimented. The key is not to be stupid. Don't engage your guides -- or locals -- in political discussions. The conversation will be uncomfortable at best. Once you get back to the states, though, expect people to want to see your pictures, for a change.

Tom Johansmeyer

6/16/08